Evolution of basic equations for nearshore wave field

Evolution of basic equations for nearshore wave field

In this paper, a systematic, overall view of theories for periodic waves of permanent form, such as Stokes and cnoidal waves, is described first with their validity ranges. To deal with random waves, a method for estimating directional spectra is given. Then, various wave equations are introduced according to the assumptions included in their derivations. The mild-slope equation is derived for ...

Nearshore Wave Modeling with High-Order Boussinesq-Type Equations

The accuracy of using high-order Boussinesq-type models as compared to the typical order models is examined in this paper. The high-order model used is the two-layer model of Lynett and Liu in 2004, which captures both linear and nonlinear wave evolution up to kh 6. The physical situations examined all involve nearshore breaking, and an eddy-viscosity type breaking model is adopted for the two-...

Nearshore Wave-topography Interactions

The principal focus of this program has been on understanding the nearshore problem from a top down point of view. At time scales longer than storm periods and length scales larger than 100 meters, the behavior of the nearshore appears surprisingly complex, with subtantial interannual variability and variability on all scales. We believe that this results from feedback between the fluid and bat...

Far Field Expansion for Anisotropic Wave Equations

Exact traveling wave solutions for system of nonlinear evolution equations

In this work, recently deduced generalized Kudryashov method is applied to the variant Boussinesq equations, and the (2 + 1)-dimensional breaking soliton equations. As a result a range of qualitative explicit exact traveling wave solutions are deduced for these equations, which motivates us to develop, in the near future, a new approach to obtain unsteady solutions of autonomous nonlinear evolu...